This post I must dedicate to my truly favorite jewelry designer, Miriam Haskell. For decades she and her partner designed Jewelry and I positively love those from the late 1920s to the late 1930s. 

I have a few pieces and I'd have plenty more if they weren't rare and expensive. To find them I just keep a keen eye out for auctions and listings. Sometimes you can find them at great prices because those who list them aren't quite sure what they are. It was truly amazing to me when I received my first piece of Miriam Haskell last year.  Its the most common of her styles in the white glass beads but still so special to me.I soon noticed that I needed more things to wear with my Haskell pieces. Yesterday, I whipped up this 1933 dress from Beyer's Modenblatt, a German fashion book.

It was a simple yet becoming style which is perfect for every day wear. I especially loved the fullness at the hem which was so popular for early and then late 1930s dress fashion. Other features of the dress include darts at the bustline and kimono style
 cut sleeves. This was indeed a pattern for a deb but it was in my size anyhow and I went for it. Yes, the size was in my favor but the cut or style wasn't. The torso and all around the shoulder is a bit short, but I'll know to adjust this for the next time, for I intend to make another or two!

 What really mattered to me is that it would go well with the necklace and I do think the plaid rayon turned out perfectly for it.

The clasp of the necklace too, is so pretty that I personally think it needn't be hidden. Such beautiful details on every piece that she created. Including her beautiful name on the bag or tagged somewhere on her pieces. 

                    There is really a good deal of information out there about Miriam and the history behind her company and herself. I could go on and on about her here for you now if i had oodles of time. Alas! its on to the next dress design to go with my most prized possession of her pieces that I am lucky to own. That will come very soon!     I just love her and everything she creates!
                                                                                                      Toodle-Oo for now!

                                                 Krystle!

Thelma Todds Celebration; Yet another Thelma Dress!

       At the end of last month I celebrated Thelma Todd's birthday, which I do every year and it always winds up being an even bigger ordeal than my own July birthday. Thelma has always been at the highest position on my list of favorite actors in depression and precode era Hollywood. She starred in over 120 films and I can't recall just one that I've not enjoyed. Her natural funniness in front of the camera never gets tiring, nor her quick shot glances and gorgeous features and physique. 

     Just a couple of days before her birthday on the 29th I positively knew that I must make something to wear for the day. Another Thelma Todd frock, but of course! Something that epitomized her well and typified her very style. Her own fashion sense was something to shout about as well! At any rate, I turned to Thelma's short comedy films for inspiration. I thought because there are so very many of her films it was going to be a time demanding task. This wasn't the case. I had found precisely what I wanted in the very first film I turned on. The very frock for the day was in, "Bargain Of The Century," with ZaSu at her side. 
   Suffice it to say, it was perfect and a design that I've wanted ever so long anyhow. I turned to my abundance of fabrics and sewing patterns and I saw instantly what I was going to use. After two evenings of pleasant toiling this is what I came up with and created....

         And Here is Thelma's own!

    Of all the many textiles of crepes and pongees, lawns, voiles, silks and so many more I chose this floral Faille of rayon in whirls of blues and a touch of the loveliest chartreuse. It was the closest I could get to Thelma's print fabric without having to buy more.

    The pattern I used was this Butterick pattern I have had for years without having used it. Another great reason to make the Thelma Frock! Although rather easy in construction there are some details that are worth noting. One being that it's a Dolman puffed at the wrist sleeve, isn't that so ideal! 
Here is a better look at the sleeve which is elasticated at the cuff of the sleeve in a casing one may have at the elbow or more up the arm for a slightly different look.

The front center bodice is in one piece which ends in a point just at the level of the hips. This feature is mimicked at the back where you'll see the most cunning closure; a tab that runs up the back and over the neckband to which it buttons. There is also the usual side closure. 

  I did care to point out the cowl neckline and cowls are always elegant. In order for necks like these to drape into the perfect cowl I make dressmakers weights. I couldn't find these useful little items in shops, so for the longest time I've made them myself with just a couple of large washers. I crocheted around and around them to conceal the rough and unsightly hardware and then they're tacked just so to the center front and weighs down the cowl in the most charming of ways!

    To complete the ensemble I wore my favorite NRA 

(dated 1933-1935) turban

in black straw with the 

most sweet little blue 

leaves and 

honeyrod steman.

By coincidence did this accompany the dress perfectly!  My shoes were also in black patent heels with navy blue suede. You might have seen Remix Vintage Shoes' called, Cloche. Ive owned them for years and just adore them! My stockings, new old stock right out of the box,  but we won't say anything more about those!

                       

I will mention however that my new navy gloves have the duckiest scalloped feature at the cuffs and are made of a soft and thick cotton in navy with navy blue silk thread. I made them for the autumn but I couldn't help but show them off now!

   The last of the accessories is the self same fabric belt with the most appealing belt buckle of mother of pearl. It separates to open and remove between the circles, isn't it just so pretty! I line my belts in tailors canvas (or horse hair canvas to the moderns), for I've so very much of the stuff, and it works a charm to give it added strength. 

There you have it! That is what was worn to my own birthday celebration in honor of Thelma. I made her favorite cake, her favorite fare of New England food, watched her films and wore what is now my favorite Thelma Ensemble!

 Happy Birthday wishes, Thelma!

"Unless she has unlimited funds a woman must have great cleverness in the variety of her clothes." 
-Margery Wilson, 
 July 1936
                                                                                  












  

A Weekend Excursion and Lookey What I've Found!

    I just love getting in the automobile and driving away for the day (or even weekend)out of the blue. with my little boys. Nothing planned, just pick a direction and motor off from Salt Lake City. This time it was south and this part of Utah is so gorgeous as well, I just love it. 
    We usually visit ghost towns and really small towns. This time around we found a couple of towns that were once the largest cities in Utah but are now so small there isn't even a chain store (what a lovely thought, sincerely, I love that).
     We spied a great museum in a small town called Fairview and stopped to have a look. Honestly I wasn't expecting much but this museum was quite swell!

     There were many things the boys loved about it and so many things that I certainly did, such as these lovely gowns...

Look at the detail! I like very much that they had photographs of those who wore these.

This permanent wave machine pictured below! How I wish hairdressers still had these!

And a pretty amazing collection of "Antique" and "Vintage" Sewing Machines! Again, the Detail!

And Last, but of course not least....

           

                         

 This is a sloper from the past. The New Perfect Tailoring system, and although I've seen these for sale online and have not been able to afford one just yet, this museum gave me a chance to finally see one in person. I was so pleased. It was used by a local dressmaker in the 1890s and there are sleeves and backs etc. that were used to make many designs in clothing fashion that were desired. 

Here is short film on this museum and if you ever find yourself in Utah stop by!

Here's a few snaps of just how gorgeous this area is!

1930s Dress Finished My Adrienne Dore

     I've positively adored Dore for quite some time. She's an Idaho gal (which is Utah's sister state), which is swell and she was really a good actress. I saw her for the first time in "The Wild Party" with Clara Bow years ago and around the same time, "The Famous Furguson Case" with Joan Blondell. Adrienne Dore wore a swell frock in that picture and I just loved it. I saw this film again last week and I figured it was about time I had that ensemble. 

  So here it is....

    And this is Adriennes...

         I tell you...it was so bright outside! I was squinting horribly.

It was impossible to find a photograph of her in this costume so I had to finally just put on the film again and take a picture of the screen. 

  Anyhow, I went through my fabric trove and found some great georgette which has been knocking around for years that would be perfect for it (I've been trying my darnedest to use what I have instead of buying more). Then I had to draft a pattern of it by memory because I didn't have a photograph but I remembered her floral print frock was under her dark jacket and the clown-style frilled collar came up and over it. It was simple, just drafted a six gored skirt with a top that buttoned up the front and a larger under collar over large collar. 

   I used some lovely lambs wool knit for the jacket and sewed Hong Kong seams nicely because I didn't want to line it. I did put tailored pockets in it that were of the same georgette as the dress. I thought it would be clever'n'cute. It's a seamstress/tailoress no-no but I like it. I'm a designer and I can do what I want.

      I just love big collars and collars that are quite unique, don't you? 

   Here is the dress alone...

I've been trying to incorporate more black into my wardrobe because I don't have a lot of it where clothing comes in but I do have a lot of black accessories I'm dying to use. I think for fall I'm going to make a black dress, at long last, and I need a new nice black hat (as you can see)!

     

My favourite aspect of the frock was the jet-looking buttons and green and yellow georgette. This was made completely on my 1918 Bessy Love handcrank (115 Singer) of course! My Khafra (127 Singer 1923 treadle) is busy with another floral affair! 

    See ya soon!